Day 3: Abottstone to Pyecombe ~ 75m
This was probably the highlight of my mini-tour. It was the lngest day distance-wise, had scorching summer weather and the was easily the most scenic. It was topped off by a great camping site perched in the heart of the Downs outside Brighton.
I was in a good mood as I settled down to make some notes that night.
“Today has been very different. As I write I have a log fire before me. Wolstonebury Hill slopes up and to the North, beyond that, there is only the fading light in the evening sky. The ever-present hum of the A23 in the valley below is the only noise breaking the peace; the sleepy village of Pyecombe* is nestled into the side of the valley above it. I have the campsite to myself. It is almost too dark to see the lumps of milk powder in my tea.
The day started with quiet and wide B-roads out of New Alresford, gently rolling and furrowing their way through the spring landscape. It was still early morning, and with an appetite for exploring, I took an unsigned lane roughly towards where I thought I should be heading. What I saw hinted at the views of the downs to come – I could see the back of the Meon valley I’d avoided thus far. The lane twisted and climbed higher to West Tisted and to a 12th Century church, where I stopped for a snack and had my first encounter of the day with a native – a friendly and knowledgeable churchgoer.
The day was heating up as I made my way through a maze of lanes around Froxfield, the rapeseed glowing brightly along banked lanes lined with bluebells. I climbed gradually towards Steep, where the road descends fantastically towards Petersfield, clinging to the sides of the hill and offering views along the wooded escarpment. I stopped for Coffee in the town square as preparations were underway for bank holiday festivities.
The B road out of town wound its way towards Nursted, and suddenly the familiar lumps if the Downs were before me. It felt as if the first two days were merely a preamble to this part of the ride. The Downs were on my right; and there they stayed for the best part of 40 miles of rolling lanes along the foot of the hills, through quiet villages and deserted lanes. Bepton, Cocking, Treyford, Graffham, Berwick; all separated by winding roads with stunning views. I took to the odd bridleway too – a time-consuming but satisfying diversion.
As I progressed I realised portions of the route were familiar from an audax I’d ridden a couple of years ago, on a cold January day. A short and steep climb near Codwaltham tested the legs that day, when ice gathered at the foot of the slope. It was harder today.
I shortly ran out of maps and my phone ran out of juice too. A long bridleway section slowed my progress. A troupe of MTBers flashed by in the other direction, mostly ignoring my salutations. After a horrible section of straight and fast B road into Storrington I wanted to avoid the A roads as I approached Brighton, but became quite frustrated when a particular Bridleway narrowed to a single-track path up a short, branch-strewn incline. Finally I emerged onto the road to Fulking, and the Downs re-emerged once more in the evening light. The spine of combes and bostals stretching away behind me. One last climb, I thought, as I wrangled my bike up a short incline towards the Devils Dyke road, reveling slightly in the fatigue and my newly bronzed, glistening arms. There was one more climb – first up to the footbridge to cross the A23 to Pyecombe, then continuing up the ancient track to the farm and my campsite. I have a day of more familiar roads tomorrow. I think today will take some beating.“
* The -combe rhymes with boom, apparently, for non-sussex speakers…]
Day 4: Pyecombe to Pett ~70m
What to say about this day? It kind of tainted the rest of the trip and showed how badly prepared I was, how easily my routines could be broken.
I woke to the gentle patter of rain on the tent; something I’d feared but expected the night before. The tent magnified the sound, and I dawdled for a while, hoping it would stop. I eventually packed. Packed wet and slow. I made my way gingerly down the farm track and up and over Clayton hill, almost enjoying the grisly challenge. It was 9am – everyone had their headlights on. The noise of fast, wet tyres on tarmac was a little overwhelming. I followed the familiar ‘underhill’ lanes towards Lewes. Stupidly I decided to explore the odd hill around the town, went up the High street (twice), and eventually found a tea shop on the outskirts where I stopped for a second breakfast of Mushrooms on toast and tea. I needed to warm up. The rain didn’t stop. “Will you be getting the train?” the waiters asked.
I made my way to the familiar flatlands past Glynde. I was soaked through, although my feet were ok. My hands were freezing. I even put my buff on around this point. I stopped for tea in Arlington, ignoring several “Road closed” signs. I ate my tea and scones while the tea ladies managed to tell everyone and no one at length about the folly of the road closures. It carried on raining.
I’d arranged to meet my parents in Hastings later on, and was making slow progress. I’d planned to ride over Exceat and Birling gap (the highlight of an otherwise fairly boring days riding between the downs and Kent) and was loathe to skip it just to be ‘on time’. I was getting stomach cramps and stopped for a loo break. There was no dryer in the toilets, but when I emerged it had stopped raining. I puffed my way up Exceat, trying to steal views over Cuckmere haven without weaving all over the road. My breath formed dense clouds in front of me as I climbed. (Impatient motorists formed dense queues behind me.) Finally it got a little brighter, and the sun emerged as I descended on Birling gap. I shed some layers and enjoyed the almost deserted climb; less so the descent into Eastbourne, as my brakes seemed to be completely glazed. I chanced upon a bike shop and bought some better ones, to be fitted later.
What followed was an irritating couple of hours where I tried to make good time to Hastings, having misjudged the distance, and the ease of getting there. I started cursing NCN2 and its crap cycle paths and confusing signs. I tried to recharge my phone in Bexhill and found a puddle in the bottom of my pannier from the 4 hours of rain earlier. I followed a ridiculous section of bike-path-cum-drain-cover through Hastings, by this point late, frustrated, incoherent, and still damp, and eventually met my parents. I was fed tea and cake in a pleasant little café in the Old Town. The grind out of Hastings was long, tough, and a bit grim but by that point I didn’t really care. The sun came out again as I burrowed down the lanes behind Hastings to my campsite, going down hill at about 5mph as my rear brake was completely shot.
In my notes I seem to have had serious doubts at this point about whether a touring trip around the South East was a good idea or not.
(No pictures from this day as everything went a bit tits up and I’d run out of batteries for pretty much everything – phone, camera, phone charger device etc.)